Name: Republic of Vanuatu
Population: 182,000
Capital city: Port Vila (Efate)
Languages: Bislama ('pidgin' English), French, English

The 80 or so habitable islands of Vanuatu straddle the Pacific Ring of Fire, giving residents a roller coaster ride of volcanic activity and tremors as well as occasional tsunamis. On some islands the land erupts out of the seabed to rise nearly 2000m (6560ft) above sea level, on others coral atolls and rocky islets lie only a few metres above it. Not quite the size of Northern Ireland, the dry land is scattered over an area slightly larger than Germany, France and Switzerland combined. Port Vila is 1900km (1180mi) north-east of Brisbane, Australia, and Vanuatu's nearer neighbours are all island states: Fiji to the east, to the north the Solomon Islands and a splash of haute coûture pacifique marks New Caledonia to the south-west.

You think Vanuatu's beaches are unbeatable on one island until you reach the next. Divers are delighted at the pristine waters, coral reefs and accessible shipwrecks; vulcanologists' eyes go misty at the mere thought of its many smoking peaks; and naturalists proclaim its untouched forests, reefs and extravagant bird life. The islands shimmer with a green that almost hurts the eyes amid an ocean so blue you'd think the picture was doctored.

The ni-Vanuatu, as islanders are known, have bounced back today and are among the friendliest and most welcoming people in the Pacific. Since independence in 1980 travellers have been kicking back in the country in ever greater numbers to surf, dive, water-ski, trek and relax. And if any of that sounds too active there's an especially mellow-inducing brand of local firewater called kava to take all your hinges off and implant the suspicion that the 20th century is just a bad dream after all.

When to Go The southern winter is the best time, from April to October. Expect clear, warm days with an average temperature of 23°C (73°F).

Getting There The international airport is at Bauerfield, 10 minutes north of Port Vila. Air Vanuatu services run from Auckland, Noumea, Nadi, Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Air Calédonie services Vanuatu from New Caledonia, Australia, New Zealand and Tahiti, and Air Pacific links Port Vila with New Zealand, Japan, the USA and Fiji. Solomon Airlines links Vanuatu with Port Moresby and Honiara. P&O and Pacific Cruise Company cruise ships are another way of reaching the islands.

Accomodation Vila is not the cheapest place to stay in Vanuatu, and while the best accommodation there rivals the best anywhere in the world, so do the prices. You can console yourself that Vila offers some of the best and most varied dining in the Pacific. Apart from a few hostels, backpackers' lodges and church-owned accommodation, most of the rooms are in the middle to top end of the price range and better suit business travellers and big dollar tourists than budget travellers. Although camping is not generally encouraged, you can pitch a tent in the grounds of the Vanuatu National Women's Council Guesthouse in Anabrou, which also offers rooms at a reasonable rate. There are several backpackers' lodges and cheaper guesthouses scattered within a short walk of the city centre.

Events From April to June land diving takes place on southern Pentecost Island. Men dive off bush timber platforms with flexible vines tied to their ankles in this important religious and fertility rite. The divers' hair scrapes the earth at high speed to fertilise it and ensure a successful yam harvest.

Things To Do Vanuatu is a mecca for diving enthusiasts and the underwater action is virtually unparalleled in the world. Not only does the sea offer 30m (100ft) visibility (up to 50m (165ft) depending on conditions), but the seabed is continually surprising and spectacular, with coral reefs and all the bright, sprightly marine creatures that go with them. Highlights include the Cathedral, a vast cavern shot through with spectacular shafts of light from above; Blacksands Reef and Caves, inhabited by myriad small rays; Mele Reef; and more civilian and WWII shipwrecks than you'd care to wave a flipper at. Other watery activities such as windsurfing, water-skiing, snorkelling and even swimming come into their own (although sharks have been known to spoil the fun in some areas). You can try sport fishing for the big ones, as well as the other sort of fishing where you get to eat the catch. Trekking; through cloud forest, rainforest and the mountainous terrain of Santo, Gaua, Ambrym and Erromango is as good as it gets anywhere. Learn to ride a horse at one of the horse riding schools or join in the annual picnic horse race day. Port Vila has four excellent golf courses to wind down after a night of dancing or throwing your money away at the casino, and you can console yourself by drinking kava at a local kava bar or nakamal, and realise that the tangible world is just a passing dream.


Information Courtesy of Lonely Planet